2012 Vegetable planting list

Although Dan and I are going to be abandoning Henbogle for much of the summer,  I’m still planning a garden.  With my hoophouse, and judicious selection of crops, I should be able to produce some good eating in the spring and later summer.  My plan calls for a 3 distinct phases.

First, I’ll plant a mix of short and medium season crops, started early in the hoophouse, others outside as soon as the soil is warm enough.  The next phase will be to plant long season crops in the main garden and mulched heavily to keep weed down and soil moist over the summer months.  The third phase will be the harvest of long season crops when we return, and planting more short season crops for fall harvest, both in and out of the hoophouse.

One of my regrets this winter is I did not have enough planted in the hoophouse to take advantage of the very mild fall we had.  We had a killing frost of October 8, followed by 20 more mild days before a freak snowstorm on October 29, followed by another stretch of unusually warm weather.  Had I filled the beds in the hoophouse, I would have had some good eating in the fall.  Ah well, at least the beds are ready now for me to wintersow cold-tolerant veggies in February, in hopes of early spring veggies for Phase 1 of the garden plan.  Here’s the overall plan:

March 15 – June 15 — 90 days

  • Broccoli Raab — Sessantina Grossa 35 days
  • Mini Broccoli — Happy Rich 55 days
  • Broccoli — Blue Wind 49 days
  • Cauliflower — Snow Crown 50 days
  • Tatsoi — 45 days
  • Pac Choi — Shiro 30 days
  • Kohlrabi — Eder 38 days
  • Lettuces and arugula, etc, cilantro and parsley

June 15 – October 10 — 115 days

  • Brussels Sprouts — Diablo 110 days
  • Cabbage — Deadon 105 days
  • Cabbage Storage #4 95 days
  • Leeks Bandit — 120 days
  • Parsnip — Albion 120 days
  • Squash — Confection 95 days
  • Butternut — Waltham 105 days
  • Tomatoes –Cherokee Purple 72 days
    • Amish Paste 85 days
    • Speckled Roman 85 days
    • Rose 78 days
  • Dill — Superdukat 105 days
  • Parsley — Titan 75 days
  • Maybe some melon or other long season heat lover in the hoophouse

August 20 – October 10 — 50 days (but allowing for less sunlight closer to 37 days)

  • Broccoli Raab — Sessantina Grossa 35 days
  • Broccoli — Blue Wind 49 days (I can dream, right?)
  • Cauliflower — Snow Crown 50 days (more dreaming!)
  • Tatsoi — 45 days
  • Pac Choi — Shiro 30 days
  • Kohlrabi —  Eder 38 days
  • Mache —  Vit 50 days
  • Minutina — 50 days
  • Claytonia — 40 days
  • Kale — Red Russian 50 days
  • Cilantro — 50 days
  • Lettuces and arugula, etc

So, am I missing something?  Is this plan completely unfeasible, or might it work?


11 Responses to “2012 Vegetable planting list”

  1. Daphne Says:

    It doesn’t hurt to try. It really depends upon the weather. If it is one of those weird dry years, you won’t get much, but if it is a normal year you should be fine and get some good crops. Tomato support will be interesting since you can’t do it yourself. Are you going to just let them sprawl? An interesting thought would be some wire fencing a couple feet off the ground. It would keep the tomatoes from rotting but let the tomatoes sprawl safely.

    You don’t have spinach on the list. It is fast. Another thought is Swiss chard if you like it. It will just keep growing all summer long. The leaf miners will have a field day with it though.And salad turnips and radishes are short season. And you could go my route. Dried beans are really a good plant them and forget them crop. I know as garden space goes, they aren’t usually a good choice as they are so cheap, but they do fit the criteria. A cayenne pepper might be nice too. They often will dry on the plant if the weather isn’t too wet. If it is they will just rot. I’d probably go for red peppers too. It takes so long for them to turn, but if you aren’t there, it doesn’t matter.

    • Ali Says:

      Great advice, Daphne! I can’t believe I left peppers, spinach and Swiss chard off the lit, especially as I have spinach overwintering in the hoophouse right now. I’ll have to add Johnny’s Carmen peppers, I grew those a couple of years ago and they were great.

      Last year I made remesh tomato cages, so I will just use those cages again, but spaced a bit further apart.

      I also like the dried bean idea. Why not? Better to have the space filled than fallow. I can use tomato cages for them, too, it worked well for pole beans until Hurricane Irene. And yes, radishes and salad turnips are great additions to the list. Thanks!!

  2. Robin Says:

    It looks like a pretty good plan. I am with Daphne on adding some peppers & dried beans to the plantings.

    I assume that you will have someone there tending to the girls this summer?

    • Ali Says:

      Robin, I am hoping to find someone to house-sit, but have not yet. If that fails, I have a colleague who may take some of my young hens, and the rest will have to go to freezer camp. I hate to do it, but can’t see another way around it. I will really miss having eggs next winter if that is the case!

  3. nysugarcamp Says:

    Good thought, Daphne about spinach and swiss chard. And depending on the weather a viable and ample plan. Don’t forget I’ll be checking, weekly when possible. Mom

  4. S Says:

    Looks like a great plan. I really like pole varieties of dried beans. I grow Cherokee tears (a black turtle bean) and Brockton (kind of a pinto-ish cranberry bean). I wish I could find all dry beans with a pole habit–they save space and dry so easily, I have fungal problems with my bush beans.

    And maybe a late potato if you have the space?

  5. kitsapfg Says:

    A low maintenance garden with occassional watering from someone should survive fine – just be a riot of vegetation when you do finally get back to it. There is no harm in giving it a try as the alternative is to leave it fallow in your absence.

    Your road trip sounds like a great adventure!

  6. Diane Says:

    Thanks for sharing your planting schedule. It will be very helpful. I am in Maine and put up a hoop house in December before the ground froze up. This will be my first experience with growing in the hoop house although I have been gardening successfully for four years. I am anxious to get some seeds started but the hoop house soil is mud. What do you suggest to dry it out?

    • Ali Says:

      Hi Diane, It is hard to say what the best option is without knowing more about your site and the size of the hoophouse. The fact that it is so wet makes me wonder about the drainage in the area. My soil is a bit slow to dry out in the spring, yet the hoophouse is generally dry enough to work right now.

      Did you prepare the soil before the house went up? If yes, I recommend giving it some more time to dry out, then direct seed some cold hardy stuff in mid-February. If the beds are not ready, well… give it some more time, and see what happens. The worst thing you can do is work wet soil. As the days warm, maybe things will dry out a bit. Good luck!

  7. Rick Says:

    Great schedule, I really need to find a few minutes to sit down and do the same. It’s almost time to get really serious about getting some seedlings started.

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